I left Kelly about 9:00 PM. I hadn't eaten since the morning, I was starving and panicked because I had absolutely no food or wine at home. I wondered around for a long time, got totally lost and then found myself again while trying to find a grocery store, convenience store, restaurant or anything that was open on Christmas Eve, Nocha Buena. Its a cruel trick that a city that never shuts down - everything is open 24 hours - suddenly shuts down so completely that you can't even buy a pack of Chicklets. I was damned if I was going to spend Christmas Eve with absolutely no food, wine or good cheer.
After about an hour I finally found an Argentine restaurant that was open for a special Nocha Buena dinner for 60 pesos - $20US. I was very hungry and so asked the guy outside what the deal was. He said, "Oh - You are alone for Nocha Buena - Me too." He then introduced himself, clapped me on the back and took me inside. He sat me next to a young couple who looked even more lost than me.
Inside there was a spread of food that was about 60 feet long
as well as grills on either side that had piles of raw fish, beef, chicken and pork so that you could pick what you wanted and have it grilled for you. The place was packed - the picture only shows a little bit.
The couple next to me were from Manaus, Brazil.
They were in Argentina on their honeymoon. He spoke a little English and a tiny bit of Spanish. She spoke only Portuguese; it always surprises me that Portuguese speakers can be completely lost in Spanish but she could not understand a word. It was their first time ever out of Brazil and the only other time that he had been out of Manaus was to go to a rock concert in Sao Paulo. We talked about all of our families and showed photos - they of their wedding and family and I of Kelly and Lewie since that was all I had on the camera. Its funny that some of the nicest conversations that I have had traveling have been with people who are also in a foreign country, with whom I do not share a language, but with whom I can peck away using bits and pieces of a third language.
I had a great time there and took a cab home, got ripped off for 4 pesos ($1.20) by the cabbie - he tried to stiff me for 10 pesos ($3.00) but I stayed my ground.
Then it was time for Christmas. Christmas here means lots of fireworks for hours. The picture is from outside my window at the apartment.
5 comments:
Merry Christmas to both of you! Kevin, it was good to talk to you last night, and again today we are sure that no new posts mean things are progressing well. We all survived Christmas Eve and all still seem to like each other today. We are going to try to call Kelly's room when the rest of the crew arrive this afternoon.
The fam sends their Merry Christmas wishes to you and Kelly; happy to hear your Christmas eve was not spent alone. The crew here in Atl are foraging the remaining food items from yesterday and the day before while trying to avoid the "Christmas Story" marathon on TBS. Best holiday wishes from everyone..
Love Pat & Kathy
hi this is kimi and i wanted to wish you both a Merry Christmas. it is good to hear that Aunt Ann is unchanged, and we hope she gets out of the hospital soon. it sounds like the festivites are wonderful, and i'm glad you were able find people to eat with on Chritmas eve. we love you and hope the best!
love, Kimi
Merry Christmas!!! Aunt Ann, I hope you feel better soon, it stinks to be in the hospital on Christmas, but I'm so glad that you found great healthcare. Uncle Kevin, I'm glad you found somewhere with food and new friends for Christmas Eve. Hopefully the rest of your trip will be fun and we are thinking about you and miss you guys so much. Love, Cindy
Kevin, I am thinking as you are fluent with blogging, you should write an article on the medical situation you faced and the differences you encountered between Argentina and here in how situations are approached by the medical establishment. That is a terribly awkward sentence, but you know what I mean and have certainly thought of it yourself. I am just encouraging you to write it down while everything is so fresh in your mind, plus I assume you and Kelly will have to be pretty stationery for a few days. I remember when I was traveling in my youth I used to periodically spend a day in some hotel room eating bread and cheese and writing home about everything that had struck me. I was thrilled some time later to find that mother had kept these letters, and still later horrified that she had thrown them away. Enough therapy confessions for now. Merry Christmas. Love, Pam
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